Dermot O’Leary described the first day of London Collections as “the first day of the premiership.” If this is the case then the designers showcasing over the duration are at the top of the league table. So what top players have we had for day two?
JW Anderson has brought his usual exploratory flavour of androgyny to the runway. Starting off with boxy tabard-style jumpers teamed with structured suit pants. The second set of looks consisted of sleeveless shirts and suit slacks. The overcoat featured in various guises in camel and classic black.
Holding the collection together in the middle was an array of semi floral balloon sleeved jackets and matching trousers. This balloon sleeve was carried through to a set of sweaters. As the show drew to a close, a theme emerged of a new style of man bag: a ridged bucket style bag. This is not your everyday piece and bound to make a statement to any outfit.
One piece that did catch my eye was the shoes, something J W Anderson in an interview with London Collection said is his trademark piece in any collection. These shoes are something the fashion world hasn’t seen for sometime. My initial reaction was that they were something I could see Marc Bolan of T-Rex wearing if he was around today. This heeled and platform loafer/brogue is for the braver fashionista amongst us.
I’d like to take you on a dark and rather monochromatic journey to the Welsh Chapel, Charing Cross Road, London to the runway show of Alexander McQueen. The chapel bell tolled at 4pm and the show began, its opening number was a dramatic black overcoat, skinny trousers and black platform boots.
Look two gave a small hint as to what was to come. Its timeless black double-breasted suit jacket was left open to show off a face digitally printed on to a white shirt. Look three was possibly one of the strongest in the show, it featured a digitally printed image of a man’s face on to a tailored trench coat.
As the show continued, the menswear designer Harley Hughes had stuck to his British and McQueen guns and produced a typical McQueen ensemble of structured suits and coats in black and white and slate greys. Hughes created a contemporary punk (indicative of the McQueen brand) piece of a black and white tartan suit jacket with matching trouser/kilt arrangement, which was a personal favourite of mine.
The overall appearance of the show was punk meets a dark British heritage, with bold statement checks, tartans, geometric lines, leather jackets lined with shearling and high necklines. The digital printing on the coats came from the photographer John Deakin, who used images of artist Lucien Freud and poet Oliver Bernard. Statement zips also adorned the evening coats.
The McQueen show ended with not only the brands creative director Sarah Burton taking a bow, but also Harley Hughes taking the end of show bow for the first time.
All I can say is long live McQueen.
What Else Caught My Eye
So day two is over and done with and what a strong day it has been. Christopher Raeburn gave us high Antarctic fashions with pale colours of whites, metallic silvers, lemon yellows for accents, dusky blues and greens. All of these worked their way onto parka coats, bomber jackets, duffle coats and blazers.
Jumpers were also used with a polar bear motif on and all models wore hiking boots. Surely this collection is something Prince Harry could have used on his expedition?
Hackett London, classic men’s tailors since 1979 and now in 2014 they’re major players in the suit industry. Hackett took us to a hotel where all the men were impeccably dressed, no socks and sandals I can tell you that for free.
Opening with a bellboy-pushing luggage down the runway, shortly followed by immaculately dressed men and using models of every age, Hackett pulled a blinder of a show. With the collection ranging from casual suits and bomber jacket combination to classic double-breasted suits in Prince of Wales and Windowpane check, Hackett produced apparel in tweed, velvet, wool and cotton.
Ending the show was a neutral affair with cream and stone being a commonality. These colours were used on knitwear, trousers, suits and a parka. This was a show for every type of man, gentleman and modern day dandy out there.
Day three brings us Paul Smith, Tom Ford, Burberry and Sibling. I cannot wait to see what they have in store!