Vivienne Westwood. The pioneer of Punk, the producer of making pirates (even) cooler and now eco-activist recently said “climate change, not fashion is now my priority”.
But her latest Autumn/Winter collection says a different story.
Starting with a simple steel grey woolen double-breasted coat with iconic Westwood brown buttons, teamed with a simple black pillbox hat and a classic brown stiletto. Westwood lured us into a false sense of security for what was about to come.
A camel coat with exaggerated rounded lapels and collar over a plunge neckline burgundy knitted cardigan with bow at the décolletage, all worn with signature Westwood orange tartan paper bag waisted shorts and brown court stiletto. At last a peek of the Westwood we know and love.
The collection echoed the Westwood of the past, as several of the designs took us back to her 1980s looks from numerous seasons throughout the decade.
Look eight saw a modern revival of the ‘Princess’ jacket from the 1987 ‘Harris Tweed’ collection. The single-breasted jacket now in 2014, has been created from a traditional suiting fabric in a vibrant red with a jet-black heart created from the lapels in the centre.
The suit had a matching knee length skirt with sheer black tights and patent black high heels. From this point onwards a strong tailored silhouette was evident.
Strong masculine tailoring came in the form of a grey trouser suit with an ‘alcoholic’ open collared white blouse. A blue and grey windowpane skirt suit and orange tartan pants were a nod to the punk days.
The whole show had an air of post war glamour about it. As silk headscarves, pearl twinsets (with safety pins) and fur coats (and matching furry hot pants) were reminiscent of something out of Narnia and that 1940’s women would be proud to own.
Just when you think Westwood has given her all she pulls another trick or outfit of the bag.
Westwood’s concluding look where something the fashion world hasn’t seen in nearly 30 years. The ‘Mini Crini’ once worn by her 1980s muse Sara Stockbridge, made its reappearance only this time in sheer iridescent gold fabric with ruffled edging.
The outfit was styled with a stone fine knit jumper with matching palm warmer gloves and red sash, finished with patent lace-up court shoe.
But it seems Vivienne has got herself a new muse, only this time she is keeping it in the family. As the models came out for the finale, Westwood was linking a model who turned out to be her granddaughter Cora Corré, daughter to her son Joseph, who is the founder of Agent Provocateur.
Overall the show was 1940’s glamour meets signature strong tailoring from the maven of British style. The clothing empowers its wearer with Dior ‘New Look’ silhouettes, floral patterns and Westwood flourishes.
Westwood has created a collection that is not only perfect for her long term fans, but she has produced looks to educate new ones in the ways of old school Westwood.