Paris Fashion Week: Issey Miyake AW14

Paris Fashion Issey Miyake

The modern woman is always busy. I’m sure you know what it’s like when you have approximately 10 minutes to leave the house with absolutely nothing to wear, and the crazed wardrobe battle commences. Issey Miyake offered a solution in their fall collection- foldable outfits disguised as bags.

In a revolutionary collection that was reminiscent of Hussein Chalayan’s fall 2000 ‘Table Dress’, Miyake shocked the Parisian audience as the models turned semi-circular bags into garments in front of their eyes.

Multiple models sporting a coy smile sauntered down the wide runway carrying rather unspectacular bags. Without any notice, they stopped, folded the bag out into a flat circular base, and pulled out pleated garments that wrapped around the body.

The pop-up garments were almost sculptures in their own right. Using black as a primary base colour, the gathered fabric produced organic shapes that protruded out of the body in a curved fashion. A fine knit held the ensembles together and shades of turquoise, gold and ruby were intertwined amongst the black to add interest.

Although some may argue this bold stunt sought nothing but attention, Miyake cleverly added these foldable garments among the main collection of study outerwear and tailoring, to reduce the gimmick aspect of the show.

There was a clear emphasis on line throughout the collection, be it through the naturally curated ripples in the ‘pop-up’ outfits, or the bold geometric prints upon the jackets and dresses. Look 12 featured a beautiful grey scale funnel neck jacket that somehow dinted and rippled to create an unusual, boxy silhouette. Styled with sleek black leather boots and gloves, the entire ensemble screamed class.

Silhouette also remained key throughout the rest of the show, as gorgeous outerwear became the focal point. Chic blanket coats in shades of ash and vermillion were tied at the neck to produce an effortlessly sophisticated look , whereas rough shag pile furs that we were dying to run our hands through were utilised in more traditionally-cut coats.

Despite all this though, the lightly knit sculptural pieces certainly stole the show. Later looks featured more of these rippled tops with wavy hemlines and an almost liquid-like appearance that transformed as the models walked. Smock tops that totally covered the arms fell to the knees in shades of pewter, rust and metallic jewel tones.

A particularly beautiful pairing of a yellow-gold asymmetric top and oversized amethyst pencil skirt provided a wearable outcome to the angular offerings from Miyake. In contrast, Look 40 featured a voluminous gown with twisted fabric detail to the bust creating a haute vibe that was certainly not for the faint hearted.

When all the models happily paraded down the runway in the final walk, there was a level of achievement in the air. Miyake are known for their sculptural tendencies, however this season offered something much more- a piece of art that can be folded up and adorned upon yourself whenever you fancy.

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