London Collections: Men – Alexander McQueen A/W 15

Something is different. It’s not their usual dark presence on the warehouse runway. This season it’s softer, while still maintaining masculinity at the same time. Alexander McQueen have produced a collection incorporating their instantly recognisable structured tailoring, against a selection of floral and traditional pinstripe prints.

The collection centred on strong work wear incorporated into traditional military shapes. Opening with a sextet of black looks, a trio of having the words that inspired the looks – honour, truth and valour dominating black and grey city pinstriped double and single breasted tailoring, and a long military frock coat finished with cropped trousers and thick soled creeper shoes.

The shapes and styles remained the same through out just in different guises of high role necked jumpers in funereal black with an embroidered appliqué ever English poppy, to heavy-duty outerwear with contrasting floral poppy print.

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Block colouring made an appearance in work wear, blue made into knee grazing coats, a military suit jacket and drainpipe trouser. As well as combat green creations in a belted officer coat with pocket finished and a quilted top.

The dark and atmospheric collection was brought to life by not just the blue, but also oxblood red suiting with tonal red and black poppy print with velvet panels.

The final parade saw all black numbers return with black on black details. The donkey jacket finished with a star shaped medal encrusted in crystals scattered over the jacket and trousers. The Chesterfield frock coat also got the diamante medal treatment, as with as the closing piece a double breasted suit with studded and crusted creepers.

The models wore their hair sleeked and parted to the side echoing the wartime ideas of the collection.

McQueen’s autumn/ winter 2015 collective is on appearance not the typical collection from them, with floral prints instead of the dark and Dickensian outlook. But on closer inspection it has the recognisable masculine charisma and charm McQueen fans will adore.

Is this collection seeing McQueen marching into a new direction? Or are they showing a softer side to their personality? Either way McQueen have proved once again that they are the masters of design, and at the frontline of British fashion showing the world this is how it’s done.

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