If the original Dandy Beau Brummell were alive today, he would no doubt be swooning for McQueen’s latest collection created by Sarah Burton, as it defines the modern British Dandy.
Displaying a limited colour use of black & white, camel and red on traditional Savile Row tailoring, something Burton learnt from the brand’s namesake. The collection plays homage to a world traveller with an attitude.
Black became the reinforcing colour throughout the collection created into ankle grazing coats with distressed cuffs and hemlines. Sleek and simplistic pinstripe suits with double-breasted fronts and black foil embroidered moths, complete with handwritten printed shirt underneath.
A butterfly would be too pretty for such and brand whose menswear line always has a somewhat sinister Dickensian undertone. The gothic moths became a uniting figure embroidered onto camel coats, ribbed jumpers and printed onto monochromatic suits in negative polarising colours.
The classic white shirt got a McQueen overhaul in silk, sitting comfortably on the thigh with a distressed granddad collar and animal skull and primate print, with a simple black waistcoat adorned pocket watch chain and matching facial jewellery, an earring attached to a safety pin through the side mouth of the forlorn looking model.
As Victorian funeral attire passed, McQueen military gave way; could the McQueen traveller be once part of the Army?
From a black militia brocade on a drummer boy jacket with a stand collar and frog fastening, to an all read jacket with ornamental silver buttons and jet black floral and animal beaded embroidery, with matching collar and cuffs.
The show held at London’s Foreign Office finished in true McQueen style, as what looks a metallic printed duo, were in fact labour intensive designs. Wing tipped white shirts with relaxed tuxedo trousers and white trainers kept the appearance paired back to ensure all eyes were on the outerwear.
Statement antique silver sequinned suit jacket and great coat in a William Morris Paisley design closed the storytelling show with its jungle, classical and modern baseline infused music dispersed into the ornate and marble floored surroundings.
Sarah Burton has created a narrative to autumn winter 2016 collection, which through clothes tells the story of a Dickensian military traveller who has passion for the opulence and wants the world to see it.