PFW: Loewe AW16

Models wear creations for Loewe's fall-winter 2015-2016 ready-to-wear fashion collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, presented in Paris, France, Friday, March 6, 2015. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)
Models wear creations for Loewe’s fall-winter 2015-2016 ready-to-wear fashion collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, presented in Paris, France, Friday, March 6, 2015. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

The location presenting a retro, oriental style living room for those in attendance. Greenery and a micro art wall surrounded hand crafted metallic and clear stools for the ‘frow’, filled with disposable razors, brillo pads and baby powder bottles, which informed the obvious abstract direction.

The setting alone was an early indication that J.W Anderson was heading for anything but minimal with this collection.

As the show began ‘hypno’ style narration played before a chime of intense and alerting music flowed into it.

The ‘frow’ welcomed familiar faces from the fashion it pack: Anna Dello Russo, Gilda Ambrosio, Mira Duma, Carine Roitfeld and Margaret Zhang, to mention but a few. The model it pack, however, were not in attendance, with very few familiar model faces standing out, letting the onlookers rest in awe at the atelier of layers that began to trickle out into sight.

Colours ranged from vacant khaki, to modern tan and sandy rope which set an artillery tone immediately with the help of heavy texturing and fabrics, especially on the distressed skirts. Shielding and protection on the elbows and shoulders added to this obvious trend. Leather bustiers accentuated waists and took us back to the Belle Epoque days of romantic Paris.

Typically of the modernist that is Loewe, the serious ambience was short lived being separated by flashes of iridescent layered tails hanging from sleeves and on immersion midi dresses.

Extreme and sharp tailored fraying on a blue two piece caught the attention of many, with a matching frayed holdall bag to match.

Another stand out look went to the head-to-toe saddle leather coat, with exaggerated bell sleeves supported by generously spaced buttons and flared trousers of the same aesthetic.

Necklines were almost always crew and kept company with a statement necklace of a cat face; an echo of the swallows from last seasons collection and a clear reminder of our love for whimsical pendants.

The finale, led by Liya Kebede, highlighted the row of classic Loewe statement bags, treasured in their differing lusty sizes and shapes. Followed by arguably the simplest pieces of the collection, gold chunky tools of battle jewellery and the pointed heels which were charmingly paired with translucent socks adding a delicate spontaneity to the collection.

Prior to the show J.W Anderson was asked what are your favourite pieces from the collection, to which he simply replied ‘everything, everything, everything’, suddenly his  confident mindset becomes nothing less than exactly right, a truly stand out show from Paris Fashion Week and an educated study into layering.

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