London Fashion Week opened to an enchantingly demure, yet fascinatingly androgynous, show by J. JS Lee.
In a series of exquisitely crafted pieces, that were inspired by Lee’s childhood, her autumn/winter 2015 collection perfectly balances masculinity and femininity. Being a tomboy growing up, the Central Saint Martins graduate’s designs embody the androgynous no-fuss approach she’s well known for.
This year, her androgynous forte was embodied through mannishly oversized roll necks in slate grey, and formfitting pencil skirts speckled with multi-coloured dots.
The colour palette was kept neutral with dusky lavenders, tonal blacks, sleek ivories and delicate candy floss pinks, emphasising the graceful craftsmanship and the minute details. For example, the Mongolian fur lined jackets, embellished shoes and gathered pleats on skirts and trousers.
Models looked statuesque as they marched purposefully down the runway to swelling, orchestral music in flowing ivory gowns, dark wool overcoats sleekly wrapped shut with shockingly pink strings and ribbed charcoal tops with trousers – adorned with rippling pleats – draped loosely over their hips. Then, the simple silhouette focus was broken when a red-lipped model sashayed down in an ostrich-esque manner, robed in a sleeveless baby pink shaggy fur dress (or was it a coat?) paired with mannish white loafers.
The show ended with a sultry drumbeat accompanying the orchestral track before Lee, clad in an ivory turtleneck featuring futuristic black stripes, appeared, bowing and waving her hands in an adorably modest fashion. Despite still working within her well-defined lines of restraint, the Korea-born designer has shown off her new sides and that she can work with sass as well as simple.