It’s the final week of the ‘new normal’ fashion month, from bee keeping at Kenzo to a day at Church with Dior, we have curated some of the most talked about moments from Paris Fashion Week.
The week kicked off on a darker note as we we’re taken to a stained glass gothic cathedral for the Dior show, with the art-worked designed by Lucia Marcucel it was a blend of fashion and art. The show was live streamed on TikTok once again, showing Dior’s efforts to become a digitally present brand. After the industry being hit hard by the pandemic Dior, unlike Chanel, decided to offer an online shopping experience and ecommerce site to allow customers to keep shopping whilst stores were closed.
The collection – which featured Maria Grazia Chiuri’s classic long, layered silhouettes – came in soft linens and cottons, but a modern Dior staple was missing from this season: Chiuri decided against the inclusion of logo t-shirts and heavy logo-mania this season. This could be hinting at Dior’s future in a post-pandemic world, showing that feminism motifs are no longer a stylistic feature in this new era.
The construction of the jackets were loosened, showing a modern but quarantine appropriate style coming in boho-patterns and denim. It was tied around the waist like a dressing gown, giving off the ultimate working from home outfit. The accessory of the season is the double wrapped waist clinching monogram belt which was styled with the new Dior silhouette. It was wrapped around the body twice over a oversized white shirt, sheer maxi dress in faded tones of pale coral, blue and green which looked like the perfect summer dress for any post quarantine adventures.
Balmain’s spring/summer 2021 collection brought a much-needed pop of colour into the current pandemic filled world. Olivier Rousteing tapped into the heritage of the brand, opening up with a set of looks in the old school monogram jacquard print founded in the 70s. The monogram featured on high-waisted trousers, trench coats, capes and suits as well as interlocking P and B handbags.
Rousteing again showed his commitment to tailoring with fluorescent green and pink pointed shouldered blazers, again showing the influence of Balmain heritage to this collection. A touch of glamour filled the collection with leather bustier on top of grey oversized t-shirts, and shorts paired with a matching red trench coat. Crystals were the fabric of choice for eveningwear; Swarovski jumpsuits, dresses and two-piece skirt and bralette combo is the perfect outfit for a post-Covid night out.
Kenzo got the fashion world buzzing over their bee-keeping inspired spring/summer 2021 collection, empathising Kenzo’s ongoing support in working alongside WWF to help endangered animals. The environment is an essential part of Kenzo’s identity, and they strive to use recycled only fabrics for their recent collections.
Veiled bee-keeping inspired suits opened the collection and came in muted floral prints, blues, oranges and reds. The bizarre accessory for next year is practical and protective and is designed for a function.
For Chloé spring/summer 2021 collection, models took to the streets making their own way to the venue along the river Seine, in a street-style inspired montage of the models walking in the new collection was played to the audience in the Palais de Tokyo.
Chloé carefree summer was about the emphasis of everyday dressing, beautiful day dressing came in candy prink with pleated and lace inserts. Wardrobe staples came were cropped and tailored with buckle belts.
Isabel Marant created an 80s disco themed collection set in a night club, strobe lightening lined the catwalk with looks ready for the big post-Covid night out.
The collection was party ready styling, dungarees were disco ready coming in pink metallic and styled with a white puff sleeve blouse. Bold shoulders and shorter-than-short shorts came in red and were styled with a thick belt to emphasise the waist and dramatic sleeve. Marant’s signature cowboy boot had a denim makeover, and was paired with a double denim look of a puff sleeved jacket and matching shorts.
Matthew William’s debut collection unlocked a new era for Givenchy, with William’s boyish background of streetwear he has brought a fresh perspective to the iconic house.
Accessories seemed to be the focus of the collection; classic silhouettes were reworked with padlock inspired hardware. William’s brought his iconic seatbelt fastening that he had designed with Kim Jones for Dior in 2018, further showing his aims to incorporate streetwear to his collections. William’s paid homage to Hubert de Givenchy with slick tailoring and strong shoulders for his outerwear. Eveningwear had a streetwear edge; open back jersey maxi dress in black was styled with a crystal embellished thong. The cut-out detailing adding an element of sexuality to a staple evening gown.
For spring/summer 2021, Paco Rabanne brought us a chain mail fantasy, the brands iconic futurism dominated the collection. Shiny metallic gowns came in gold and silver with matching headdresses (face coverings for a covid-safe landscape) for a head-to-toe chain-mail look. These gowns would have been perfect for this year’s festive period, Paco Rabanne bringing the fantasy of next year’s party wear.
Sweeping maxi dresses with delicate lace were layered under bulky fur coats and suit jackets, a signature Paco Rabanne silhouette.
Fashion met film with Chanel’s spring/summer 2021 collection. Inspired by iconic Hollywood films, it was vibrant and youthful. The Grand Palais was staged with a giant Hollywood inspired ‘Chanel’ sign.
Statement jewellery once again dominated the collection; Chanel’s iconic layered chain belts came with quilted micro bags attached, proving that mini bags are here to stay. Logomania is back, bright t-shirts and dresses printed with the Chanel logo came in neon for a pop of colour to the collection.
Black dominated the collection with hints of bright pinks and whites, feather-dusted gowns and chiffon were a juxtaposition to the denim. High-waisted prink jeans with a black bralette and sheer cape with mini quilted chain belt established the trends of the season ahead.
Virginie Viard gave enough Hollywood glamour with the gowns that we’re made for the red-carpet, the collection highlighting hope for the year to come.
What were your favourite collections from Paris Fashion Week? Let us know on Twitter @Fashion_North!