It may have been a big deal for Korean-born designer Jackie JS Lee to kick off London Fashion Week, but she went about it with the minimum of fuss.
Her show started (almost) on time, and her collection, as always, was cool, streamlined and sharp, with clean lines and muted prints.
The show was called “Off-Road Lifestyle” and apparently, according to an interview with the Telegraph, was inspired by camping.
While you wouldn’t want to pitch a tent in any of the pristine white long-line coats or flared dresses, the outdoor motif came through in a distinctive tyre-track print which snaked up sweaters, silk trousers and tops and jersey coats.
Other recurring prints were a quiet windowpane check, which appeared on a highly desirable white coat and skirt, as well the blue and green tartan of brushed mohair princess coats and an ankle-length gown.
As on the catwalks of New York, colour blocking reigns supreme, and we saw tunic tops paired with trousers and chunky knits with mermaid skirts in bottle green, white and an eye-popping cobalt blue.
Lee describes her style as “cleanism, even more than minimalism” – the construction and layers are complex, even if embellishment is practically non-existent.
The result is elegant clothes which are modern and unprissy. She is one of 30 semi-finalists for the first Louis Vuitton Young Fashion Designers Prize, to be announced later this month, and is clearly one to watch.