London Collections: Men – Day 3 – Sankuanz, Turnbull & Asser, And Chester Barrie

Sankuanz catwalk - London Collections: Men 2014


GQ China graced us last year with Kay Kwok and this year, they’ve introduced the rest of the world to Sankuanz.

The first half of his collection is very blissful and artistic, all in white with black detail. White jackets and shirts came one after the other all covered in typography and child-like cartoon images. As the show collections progresses you get a sense of angelic influence and innocence. That is until look 16 came along.

A black shirt covered in bones, blood red shorts and a pair of monster claws to finish completely demolished any thoughts of purity. For what is essentially monochromatic collection the hints of colour that do appear in garments and not accessories is on point. A gold bomber jacket with flamed shorts with gold fringing creates a real sense of victory.

Turnbull & Asser

“Playing with the concept of tradition and “Englishness” in the absences of a civilised society is a great excuse to re-interpret some of the best archive designs of the past 125 years.”

The back story to this collection was three men marooned on an island and using clothes to keep “Englishness” and normality in their surroundings. And create some of the best designs they did. Keeping to their traditionally British heritage, Turnbull & Asser created one of their best collections to date.

Vibrant colours lace the new line bringing a more summery feel to it. Yellows and blues that demand attention were placed in the room very tactically. As they reeled you in, the more casual collection catches your eye. Shorts and trousers covered in paisley with bow-ties to match present themselves in a regal manner in a side room.

Parrots and jigsaw pieces also made the cut keeping that sense of marooned on an island going. Bringing in the wildlife they shared their make-shift home with.

Chester Barrie

This British brand did not fail to disappoint with their latest collection. Keeping it simple seems to be the way to go for the semi-bespoke tailor.

This small collection, like all their collections, is aimed at a younger demographic. It has added a modern twist onto what is a traditional English look. Teaming tailored shorts with a casual jacket creates a bit more of an unpolished look and the stone colours keep it neutral to stop it from standing out too much.

A checkerboard shirt with chinos and a scarf is as casual as this collection goes, but even then it’s still very high end. Single and double breasted blazers made the cut and kept up that “English” manner that they intend to create.

The tones of the new line are very subtle and are easy on the eye, with the exception of a pair of yellow chinos.

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