Pass me a painkiller, Gucci has just given me a massive fashion headache.
Prior to the show, security guards with bomb detecting sniffer dogs walked through as the guests stood outfit the entrance to the venue in Milan.
Once everyone was seated, the AW16 collection from the Italian brand kicked off in an ominous pitch black room as a short film flickered to life on the cinema sized split screen. It reminded me when I was a kid; the VHS tape had finished and the TV screen starts strobing with black and white flickers. I was half expecting the girl from The Ring to crawl out!
The film showed reversed footage of a glacier melting and I braced myself for a truly moving collection.
Only a single strip of spotlights lit the runway, hiding the FROW from view.
Teal blues, soft pinks and sunshine yellows appeared first, and I had to double check that this was the AW collection; as typical earthy autumnal tones were absent.
The only things consistent within the collection seemed to be the oversized sunglasses, bowler style hats and coloured tights, as Gucci took us through a kaleidoscope of 60s frills, 70s prints, 80s platforms, power dressing, trouser suits, multicoloured mesh ball gowns, fur, tassels, sequins, leather jackets, silk geisha skirts and snake embellishments. Phew!
It seemed like the collection was trying to please everyone and, to me, that’s playing it far too safe.
One outfit that comes to mind from the collection every time I close my eyes now was the long fur coat in bright yellow; think Big Bird from Sesame Street in yellow tights with a yellow Gucci bag tucked under his wing. Although, this may mean that come this autumn I’ll be injecting some bright yellow into by monochrome wardrobe – but don’t hold your breath.
However, the accessories were on point! The jewel framed oversized glasses would make any eyewear junkie go weak at the knees, and the Mary Jane’s were a pleasant comeback.
The Italian brand also added mesh veils to bowler hats for a dark funeral edge. Bracelets with chains covered the models hands as they clutched handbags striped with nautical and earthy colours.
Soft waves in mid-length hair, which was parted on the side, bounced along the catwalk and had us reaching for our rollers to achieve, what Gucci perfected as, ultimate hair goals. A strong contour was all that donned on the models natural faces.
Despite fully acknowledging that you never know what you are going to get from Gucci, the show left me pondering my entire previous knowledge of the Italian fashion house. Did I really know Gucci at all? Are fashion houses trying to please everyone by including every colour, texture and pattern in their shows?
Keep a look out for “all of the above” this AW16.