Suiting Upscaled refers to a trend occurring across many recent runway shows where tailoring is used frequently, but altered with the intent to provide a new and unique take.
The alteration frequently takes the form of oversized cuts and fitment to provide an effortless sense of style and additional comfort. This trend can be evidenced by the increase of preppy looks and aesthetics seen on the runway compared to spring/summer 2022, with Tagwalk reporting a massive increase of 131%.
Designers featuring looks that can be categorised as suiting upscaled include Kiko Kostadinov, Namacheko, Kenzo and Y/Project. The preppy theme was further reinforced by an influx of shows taking place in high schools throughout Paris, the list of brands choosing schools as a setting includes Ami Party, Paul Smith and Hed Mayner. A
lot of looks like this lean into a cosy aesthetic and provide more freedom of movement as opposed to traditional tailoring which can often be quite restrictive, evidence of this can be seen in shows like the newest collections from Emporio Armani and Dries Van Noten where tailoring pieces are mixed with leisure items and even pyjamas. Louis Vuitton also provided an interesting take on this trend, featuring suit jackets and trench coats with nature-themed prints and designs, also leaning into the happy, cosy design language of suiting upscaled.
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