There is a sense of happiness throughout the fashion industry. As the world opens up, so do the doors of the biggest designer labels as they present their spring/summer 2022 collection in the long-awaited return to physical shows at Milan Fashion Week.
The packed schedule of runway shows and big events like the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards leaves us waiting to see what trends are to come for the season ahead. Take a trip back in time to Studio 54 with Fendi or explore the butterfly effect at Alberta Ferretti.
Fendi
Kim Jones opened Milan Fashion week with his first in-person catwalk show since joining the luxury Italian label as artistic director of womenswear and couture. The show was a disco extravaganza, paying homage to Studio 54 and 1970s disco glamour, with models lining the runway in silk floaty dresses, sharp trouser suits and an array of furry coats, a staple at Fendi.
For the spring/summer 2022 presentation, Jones took inspiration from archived hand-sketched logos by fashion illustrator, Antonio Lopez, a long time friend of Jones’ predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld. Lopez’s work defined the spirit of 1960s and 70s decadence and glamour of New York City.
Taking Lopez’s work of oversized brushstrokes and abstract patterns, Jones centred his colour palette around soft greys, pink and blue before moving to chocolate brown and black for evening wear. The show opened with all-white slit coats, waistcoats and trousers suits and wide-leg trouser suits worn with bralettes – a trend seen throughout spring/summer 2021.
Colour became more impactful throughout the collection, reflecting that our post-pandemic life is bright and cheerful, with rainbow illustration prints in pastel tones fashioned into mini dresses and silk gowns.
The collection was devoted to power suiting, tailoring that was made to be glamourous leaving the world of office wear and entering the realm of evening power dressing. The collection successfully left us with an appetite and excitement for post-pandemic dressing, whether you’re searching for bold cocktail dresses and the warmth of a fur coat, Kim Jones at Fendi has you covered.
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti unveiled her latest collection on the first day of Milan Fashion week showing perfectly the juxtaposition between exaggerated fringes vest fit for festival wear, to long camel coats, to sparkling sequin dresses, there was something for all occasions. She showed how to perfect a seasonal wardrobe and the importance of versatile styles, from slouchy casual wear to dazzling party frocks.
The show had a clear structure, starting with white, black and neutral tones, ending on a brightly coloured conclusion, the collection was to lift spirits.
Fringe was a prominent style feature seen throughout the collection and will be an emerging trend for spring/summer 2022. The light, effortless feel to the fringe was seen with oversized slouchy tailored suit trousers or worn as a dress with sandals.
Ferretti, who is known for sportswear, has tried a different approach these past seasons, making clothing that is more classic but equally trendy. Office-ready styles including trenches, tailored trousers paired together with crochet tops were flattering and summer-ready.
Butterflies played a starring role in the collection, either as photo prints on a wrap skirt or fluttery mini dresses. Embellishment was another key theme in the collection, showing the after-effect of the pandemic on fashion, showing glamour we all have been craving.
Max Mara
Escapism is high on the agenda for Max Mara’s designer Ian Griffiths as he takes the brand to new heights with a collection inspired by French writer Francois Sagan and his novel, Bonjour Tritesse, written in 1953 about the stylish wardrobe of those holidaying and those women who refused to conform to convention whilst living a glamorous lifestyle.
The inspiration translated in breezy wardrobe staples of boxy striped shirts layered with matching skirts that were worthy of an Amalfi coast holiday.
Griffith delivered classic Max Mara with a twist, showing elevated styles and a palette that went beyond the houses signature neutrals. Pushing traditional norms of neutral, we saw summer tones of yellow and orange mixed together with blue and white stripes.
Griffith did not disappoint with a first-class casting that was not only star-studded but perfectly diverse. Reflecting Max Mara’s vision of inclusivity, the show ended with Gigi Hadid and Irina Shayk wearing a matching black bra top and skirt, with Adut Akech, Joan Smalls, Mona Tougaard, Sora Choi, Anok Yai and Jill Kortleve gliding down the runway in between.
Etro
Veronica Etro brought together the houses signature styles and renewed them, making them equally as familiar but adding a fresh approach by tapping into the 1970s and 90s for inspiration. The signature “flower power” florals and embroidery was blended together to create slouchy tailoring, relaxed denim and chiffon dresses.
From floral patterns to yellow, red and pink tones, the collection was heavy on easy and manageable wear. Showing patched trousers, slip dresses, cropped bombers and mesh skirts and bras, all made to be worn on your next summer holiday.
Blumarine
Nicola Brognano has transformed Blumarine perfectly, showcasing the Y2K renaissance that is very much apparent in fashion today. For their spring/summer 2021 collection, Brognano brought together neon shades, head-to-toe denim and full pink looks made for Barbie.
Mesh was top of the agenda for this season, neon yellow mesh tops and trousers and brown flows chiffon dresses were the standout pieces. Once again this season, the butterfly and animal print motifs are very much apparent, butterflies were shaped out of denim to create a crop top that we can expect to see rocked by all Y2K influencers on Instagram come spring 2022.
What was your favourite collection from the opening days of Milan Fashion Week? Head over to Twitter to let us know your thoughts.
