To celebrate Ricardo Tisci’s tenth year at Givenchy and the opening of his new flagship store he showed his Spring Summer ’16 collection in New York instead of Paris. On a set designed by Marina Abramovic made of completely recycled materials next to the Hudson River the views of the World Trade Centre made for a poignant touch with it being the 14th anniversary of the World Trade Centre attacks. Tisci also made the show more accessible by selling an additional 1,200 tickets for his show – with 280 tickets alone being allocated to students and professionals at local fashion colleges.
Featuring out of this world make-up and masks by Pat McGrath and Couture like pieces the show was not only spectacular but as miss-matched as the clothes themselves. Opening with ready-to-wear the show also featured an eclectic mix of menswear, couture and Givenchys new denim range. This caused the show to have a slightly disorganised feel but this did not take the attention away from the incredible clothes Tisci produced this season.
We have seen it before but underwear as outerwear is an obvious trend throughout this whole show. An obvious colour palette of black and white added a subtle level of sexiness to the show as well as staying particularly virginal with the perfect whites.
Beautiful white lace trimmed camisoles layered over trousers and layered underneath delicate sheer shirts the contrast of materials looked incredible as it walked down the runway. With black satin wide leg trousers paired with tuxedo jackets and lace camisoles underneath changed the silhouette suddenly to a more masculine feel.
The play on different fabrics and materials as well as cuts and shapes made this show so interesting, an abundance of lace and camisoles could have made for a slightly dull collection however Tisci’s clever way of mixing up these combinations was what made it so exciting.
After the many pieces of menswear that broke up the show along came the couture. A sublime satin tuxedo jacket with a deep V neck with layers upon layers of feathers resting underneath this piece was sublime as well as the brown and black feathers nestled at the hem of a dress contrasting with such a plain jersey tee. Incredible. Leather laser cut jackets with gold embellishments and an off the shouldered cuffed dress all in shades of gold and bronze stood out amongst the blacks and whites of before.
Ending the show full circle with the lace pieces the overall take was a loungey aesthetic that could easily translate to what young women wear during the day or after dark. The couture pieces stand alone in themselves and will surely be worn by some celebrity at an event in the upcoming weeks whereas the ready to wear – sold in all stores next season and are sure to be strong sellers for Tisci.