Things have been a tad unsettled within the Jil Sander brand for the past few years; creative directors have been in and out so many times it seemed the company was literally doing the Hokey Cokey. However, in his second collection for the Italian brand, Rodolfo Paglialunga has proved he means business.
Hardcore fans of Jil Sander will appreciate the efforts Paglialunga has made to keep the house style alive and kicking. High-waisted trousers with a sharp crease, paired with crisp stone coloured trench coats and sassy orange-tinted glasses, projected the ultra-cool aesthetic that the brand is famous for. Colour blocked turtleneck jumpers dominated the early looks, combined with everything from a long, double-breasted duster jacket, to a perfectly fitted blazer and a crazy geometric-patterned fluffy wool jacket. Some outfits looked as if they had been created at the hands of Jil Sander herself.
However once the tailored, more pared-back looks had been established, the influence of the new creative director began. Steering away from the brands usual neutral-dominated colour palette, the AW collection used insipid shades of pumpkin and mustard as accent colours. Diagonal striped jumpers of navy and white were given a new lease of life with bright orange piping and matching belt. Classic navy suits were uplifted with tangerine jumpers and mustard collars. Simple A-line dresses were amped up with knee-high saffron leather boots. A beautifully rich emerald green shade was utilised in dramatic overcoats and sexy buttoned blazers; it shouldn’t have worked, but there was something so Milan about it.
In true Jil Sander style, print was kept to a minimum. Linear patterns were used across coats and trousers that gave an almost mathematic edge to the collection, making the clothing even more sharp. Belted white coats and matching wide-legged trousers were embellished with black vertical and horizontal lines, with the same print reversed on the following black ensemble. The later looks had a monochromatic focus, experimenting with the idea of check prints, accented with the occasional nude or yellow panel. Overall, the effect was sexy, sleek and very Italian – everything that Jil Sander is celebrated for.
It may have taken some time, but it seems Paglialunga is settling into Jil Sander, with a collection bieng sexy, wearable and slightly experimental, he has brought the limelight back to the brand and it is looking like he is here to stay.