Travelling through Demon Zhang’s Wistful Three-act AW25 Show

press image of the Demon Zhang catwalk show launch at London Fashion Week
credit: London Fashion Week/Demon Whang

On a haunting London day, a story of estrangement and rebirth was told through complex design. Demon Zhang’s debut collection, ‘Lumen Obscura’ was a ‘signature exploration of innovative materials’. Divided into three acts, the show is a complete metamorphosis, beginning with feelings of anxiety, gradually escalating into intense fury, and ultimately transforming into a final act of resilience and hope. Overall, the unisex ready-to-wear looks merge androgyny with practicality whilst conveying personal and relatable truths.
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A post shared by Demon Zhang (@demon_tz)

The atmosphere is established with cold blue lighting as models emerge, choreographed to uneasy, apprehensive music. Collaborating with Chinese musical artist, Yunlong Zheng, an other-worldly experience is captured with lightwork prompting existential dread. Elements of the anxious mind and human fragility were presented in soft shades like cream and pink. A standout look includes a sheer, white lace camisole with mirrored sequins that form an illusion of never-ending light. Jeans are worn to interrogate the initial femininity of the look without becoming a distraction. Other designs are overflowed with blush fringe as a beautiful representation of the softness of vulnerability.

Shifting into the second act, tones become warm and fiery as the sense of alienation evolves into ambitious fury. Embellishment and sequins in red, brown, and black dominate this portion. Sometimes, lighting choices can cast shadows, making it difficult to see the intricacies of certain garments. However, this is excusable when interpreted as the visual representation of overwhelming emotions. Another standout look paired a detailed, floral-embellished maxi skirt with a slumped knit, distressed jumper. Recycled textiles have been ‘reborn through distressing, patchwork, metallic brushing and screen-printing’ throughout.

The designer Demon Zhang source: LFW/Demon Whang

The celebration of light truly begins in Zhang’s final act; compiling materials from all corners of the fashion world, an empire of ethereal beauty is built. From metallic textures to LED panels, light is used as a sign of hope in turmoil. This forms a conclusive journey of emotion from the alienation in the first act. Materials that constantly juxtapose resemble the emotional duality of fear and hope amongst the illusions of light. These designs ‘merge radical sustainability with unapologetic emotion’ in this wistful debut show.

For a generation navigating the chaos of reality, an iridescent escape to the alternative is everything we need and more.

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