Designer Roksanda Ilincic who has just shown her AW25 designs at London Fashion Week. Credit: Alamy
A craft on the future of femininity. Roksanda gave us an abundance of materials, oversized and sculpted.
London Fashion week 2025 has commenced and the designer brand for womenswear, Roksanda has blessed us with a new collection. Roksanda Ilincic, founder and designer of the label, expresses a different perspective of femininity in her work, challenging traditional felinity, she likes to embed oversized looks into her collections
Like her SS25 collection, the show was held on the 17th floor of Space House, Covent Garden, where the sun was beaming through the wall of glass windows onto the models. The show started with classical music, where then the first designs came down the runway. First we see shades of brown, keeping it autumnal.
One look that stood out to me was the oversized chestnut suit and skirt, with an electric blue inner lining. This look goes hand and hand with the brands motives, challenging femininity. Although, it seems as a metaphor for hidden beauty or beauty within.
Look 16, was the main event for me. Keeping the electric blue theme, a satin full body dress with a long sleeve. This look portrays elegance but also mystery, with the loose fit.
The last outfit, look 35, embodies the sculptural theme. It reminds me of a Picasso painting, completely disfiguring a tradition feminine dress. The look starts with a layer of black followed by layers of vibrant red, blue and pink.
Vogue stated that the AW25 collection was inspired by a British artist called Phyllida Barlow, that comes to life in her sculptural gowns. Roksanda posted on instagram a quote by Phyllida Barlow “The every day becomes absurd because it is made out of absurd materials”, her collection represents this through her combination of embellishments, tool, fringe and wool. As a whole, the collection felt like an art form.
The show entertained adored celebrities such as Vanessa Redgrave and Sheila Atim.
Overall, this AW25 show was a beautiful story of modern femininity, and displayed how fashion is a true art form. However, the show did not reach its full potential with the chosen location, for the looks and theme of the designs, I would picture a more imaginative runway.
Emma Louise Jones
All pictures from Alamy
